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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. Yet, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the cuisine, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.